Anything For The Boys?

I returned from holiday just over two months ago now and I have to say I am missing Lagos.
Although being back at work has kept me occupied, I occasionally have moments where I long to hear some form of noise in the streets other than the occasional car going by every few minutes.

I’m not too sure why I gave this blog post its title. I guess it's a common statement that I often hear in Lagos which can be interpreted as ‘what do you have for me?'
As an IJGB, It should be expected. It's unavoidable. You have lived abroad so there is an immediate assumption that you are well to do. Everyone needs money and in Lagos, they are not afraid to ask lol. I'm talking anyone from relatives to bank staff, police officers, Lastma, airport officials, and the good old area boys!

I don’t give bribes... Though there was one exception, my very first trip to Lagos, my cousins and I took my aunts dodge to go clubbing on the island. (I shall give details of this adventure in a future blog post) Anywho my cousins gave a small bribe to the policemen who stopped us which I put some naira towards... When finally departing for London my aunt shoved 2000 naira in the pocket of my denim shirt and said 'In case anybody tries to patronize you.' I hadn't slept the night before and had a migraine. I gave N500 to each of the airport officials that wouldn’t get off my back... still made it home with 500 though :D
Today, when airport officials stop me asking what I have brought them my response is always ‘I brought you my smile’, some do not take to well to this but ultimately they get the message that I am not parting with any cash.
Back in 2011, I was a complete novice in Nigeria. To my cousins I was 'omo oyinbo' and to the locals 'aje butter' which literally means child of the whites, in other words, someone who was too posh to fit in Lagos. Whenever preparing to go out on excursions, they would tell me not to be alarmed if armed police officers approached the car and not to speak at any cost.
At present getting stopped by police at roadblocks doesn’t really bother me. My brain processes it as; hey these people are going to flag you down, we slow down and stop, and show them the vehicle particulars... kind of like a conductor checking your oyster on the bus... except not only is he checking that your oyster is valid, he wants a bit of change too. I usually greet and give the same courteous response. If they insist on me giving I tend to dash them any small chops (snacks) that are in the car (not dash literally, that would put me in trouble ) more of a quick handover of gala - a pastry similar to that of a half-baked sausage roll) and step on the gas without looking back....My cousins always said that they found the way I would switch from using a British accent, to a Nigerian one and then to pidgin rather strange.

Mainland vs. Island

One thing I can't quite get my head around is the differences in the behaviour of the police. Although I’m sure you get good and bad cops in both places I am solely documenting what I experienced.
Police on the island were pretty civilized, the car checks in the day were occasional and brief.
After dark, a torch would be shone on the driver, a routine boot check was sometimes requested.
The police on the mainland ugh how irritating. Always stopping people for no damn reason, searching your entire car looking for a random excuse to keep you there and waste more time, despite having displayed genuine particulars. Abrupt, aggressive and mannerless. On two occasions they searched the car for prohibited items. When that failed they turned on us. Full body search! Pretty rough in their approach too. I was not touched inappropriately but I think the force used was slightly excessive. This particular event happened in Ojodu mainland Lagos).
I'm not going to disclose how much the driver of the car had to pay to shoo them off but it wasn't exactly small change....
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Ebola Free..

Nigeria successfully managed to contain the Ebola virus that struck in July 2014 when Liberian-American national Patrick Sawyer arrived from Liberia.

To begin with, tracing all those who initially had contact with him was both a tricky and time-consuming procedure. In a city that has scanty telecommunication networks, no official ID database, and an unreliable power supply, you can imagine what these government officials went through. 

(NB Nigeria launched its national ID electronic database system in august 2014)

Tracing took place in two cities; Lagos and Port Harcourt. At the latter the individual who allegedly traveled from Lagos and avoided investigation managed to transfer the virus to the doctor who treated him - who is part of the 8 cases that are now deceased. That report alone made me sceptical, so I questioned the authenticity of the 21 cases... Could there have been more that were not reported?

The awareness campaigns were pretty good. Some a little dramatic but hey they did the job! When I was in Nigeria over the summer everyone was talking about 'Ebola O.'' Funny enough I flew in two days after Sawyer did. Shortly after I arrived I noticed a number of adverts began to surface on television, displaying the signs and symptoms of the hemorrhagic fever between practically every programme. Posters were written in different languages too. The Sanitation of Lagosians improved and suddenly all the hand sanitizers and Dettol hand wash units were sold out in Shop rite AND Spar. 

I recall sitting in my hotel in Lekki eating breakfast whilst watching the news, sometimes I did feel a little anxious... A sudden influx of calls beginning with +44 numbers were family and friends warning me to be cautious. That did not stop me enjoying my holiday altogether, I just reduced the number of outings I made every week. For certain places in Lagos, it was business, as usual, take Elegushi beach, for example, it was always the happening place on a Sunday regardless, so moving through crowds rubbing sweat drenched bodies was unavoidable.

 

If the Ebola had got further beyond the 21 confirmed cases, it could certainly have been a painstaking blow to Nigeria and the rest of west Africa.

The panic and fear of the virus caused a ‘20 percent to 40 percent decline in commercial demand' International business times (2014). Flight cancellations increased, business was slow for second-hand traders, and the World Bank reported that the country’s growth expectation decreased by 0.5%.

Earlier last month Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, Nigeria's finance minister stated ‘There’s been some fall-off in hotel occupancy, in Lagos in particular, some meetings have been postponed, but you still have other business people who are arriving.’ Bloomberg news (2014).

Not bad news at all is you ask me, let’s hope it stays that way. 

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God Bless Nigeria

After break time on Wednesday, a group of year nine pupils came into class jeering.
Another reminder that it was Nigerian Independence day. It has been fifty-four years since Nigeria gained independence from the United Kingdom. Some see this milestone as the beginning of Nigeria's downfall. Others like myself take a slightly different angle.
Today the largest megacity in Africa is in Nigeria. That same city is also the fastest growing economy in west Africa.
When I think about the amount of money I spend traveling to Lagos each year, I ought to have saved enough for a mortgage deposit.
In terms of life experience, each trip has allowed me to gain a deeper knowledge and understanding of people and places. With memories that are next to none, I cannot compare my experiences in Lagos with holidays in the western world. I just don't think you can put a price tag on things that enable you to develop as an individual. That is not to say I did not enjoy my travels in Europe, they were just a different kind of travel experience.

I would not be the person I am today if I had never visited Nigeria. Just one sibling other than myself has been. They seem to have that 'London-based tunnel vision' syndrome. They grew up here, it's the only system they know; hence, Nigeria does not appeal to them in any way shape or form. To an extent, I don't blame them but ultimately you cannot knock something until you have tried it. My own London-based tunnel vision vanished once I began studying for my degree at university.

Africa is a continent that the world looks down on. The second class continent.
I once asked a pupil 'what do you think Nigeria might be like' he replied, 'everyone lives in mud huts.' I asked why he thought this, his response 'because it's in Africa.'

It's no wonder people are shocked when I tell them I go to Lagos on holiday. Due to the notion perpetuated by the mass media, they cannot possibly picture it as a tourist destination. This notion has been embedded in the western world for the last three decades and still exists today. If you want to take it back even further before then I suggest reading a number of books by Walter Rodney.
Africa as a continent has quite a bit of work to do before it can finally catch up to the developed world. Despite being a troubled country, Nigeria is growing from strength to strength.
I view the nation as a baby, still crawling, far too absorbed in its comfort zone to try and stand. When he finally decides to lift himself off the ground and attempt to take his first steps, they will be crooked, and short-lived (hence what is happening at present.)  He needs infinite patience, encouragement, and miraculous leadership!

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Five Reasons To Visit Lagos!

With a Six week holiday to utilise I'm off to Lagos in a few days so decided to write a post on why others should visit too.
My third trip this year, my siblings describe me as a Lagos addict lol... perhaps some of the things listed below might explain why...

5. Pounds & Naira

One of the good things about visiting Nigeria is the exchange rate. The current rate is one GBP  to 280 naira but this could give or take a few naira depending on the vendor. That's a happy tourist for you, especially if you're on the mainland as the cost of living is relatively cheaper.

In the districts of Ikoyi, Victoria Island, and Lekki expect prices to be within a similar region as those in London (once exchange rates have been calculated)

4. Food

You really don't have to look far to find what you like in Lagos.
My two favorite choices are suya and shawarma.
If visiting Nigeria for the first time, these are a must try! Not particularly healthy to say the least although I am yet to find anywhere else in the world where it tastes as good as it does in Las Gidi (another name for Lagos.) Make sure you purchase from a reputable vendor and If you are vegetarian opt for seafood suya.

Lagos has a handful of transnational restaurants; Dominoes and KFC are of the expected standard however service may be slow. Then there's your traditional Nigerian cuisine in the form of small roadside shacks which we call 'bukkas'. Here a variety of swallows (pounded yam, eba, amala, ground rice, semolina, wheat, and tuwo) are served with a selection of stews (egbono, efo, egusi, ewedu, gbegiri) and assorted meat or fish.

For intercontinental dishes such as sushi or steak and chips, I recommend Bungalows in Victoria island.

Prices range from N350 at local bukkas for a plate of; rice, beans, plantain and stew, to N2,000 naira for a combo meal at KFC.

3. Location

As the island districts of Lagos are coastal that can only mean one thing.
BEACHES!
Lagos is home to several public and private beaches where you can enjoy activities including; boat trips, horse riding, fishing, swimming, even surfing and scuba diving! It's a perfect day out for anyone and everyone. For those who are keen on water sports I recommend tarkwa bay, there are plenty of friendly expats that use the beach for recreation.

EKO Atlantic is a new development under construction where reclaimed sand from the Atlantic has been used to create an extension of land, which will be home to the new CBD (central business district) of the Victoria island axis.

2. Nightlife

Lagosians are merry people. Your average Lagosian incorporates a high percentage of social activity into their lifestyle regardless of work commitments. That's just the way it is...I myself am certainly not exempt...when in Lagos you do as Lagosians do :)
You haven't experienced club hopping until you visit Lagos, it doesn't even come close to my university benders. At the upmarket clubs, heels are a MUST (for females) else no entry, so party feet cushions will probably come in handy. In certain clubs, VIP means VIP... literally.
Generally, there are fewer rules with clubbing in Lagos... smoking is pretty common, you can take your heels off, dance on the roof top if you wish, and parking attendants give you a really good space (for a small fee of course). You are pretty much permitted to do as you please as long as you're not disturbing anyone and you have the cash to pay for it. I'm sure you are questioning health and safety now with a raised eyebrow... Funny enough I have never experienced any problems. If drinks are spilled they are mopped up promptly and bouncers keep a watchful eye for troublemakers. Some clubs check belongings upon entry, some do not. The clubs usually go on till 5/6AM so are not for the fainthearted.

I would recommend Quilox, and prive both of which are located in Victoria island. Sip do nice cocktails. I found the alcohol content slightly stronger than the cocktails back in London... You have been warned *sips tea*

1. Weather

The best thing about Lagos has to be the weather!
No freezing winters with daylight cut short at 4 pm :D
An equatorial climate means Heat all year round. Lagos has a dry and rainy season. There is also a period of weather known as hammatarn where north-eastern trade winds blow from the Sahara down to the gulf of guinea. The wind brings dry dusty spells which are usually cooler. The wettest months are June and July and the average day temperature is 27 degrees Celsius.

I can't really say the best time of year to visit O. I was around in April for two weeks, despite being the rainy season it rained on just two occasions.  I usually enjoy Christmas time the most, my fellow IJGB's will know what I mean.

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RELOCATION!....RELOCATION!!....RELOCATION!!!

Rd 2, Victoria Garden City

The whole point of creating this blog was to document the entire process of my relocation hence the web address; ijustgotback.blogspot.co.uk

The term 'I just got back' #IJGB refers to a person of Nigerian origin who was either born and resides abroad or has lived outside Nigeria (usually the United States, or Europe) for an extended period of time.

BACKGROUND

Born and raised in London I have spent my entire life here. I made my first trip to Nigeria five years ago whilst studying for my first degree. This was a pretty late stage for a first timer and my folks never took me whilst growing up. Having said that I have plenty of British Nigerian friends also born in the UK that have never been home.

Since my first visit, I've traveled back to Lagos on several occasions mostly for vacation, weddings, and a volunteering placements.... I’m sure your thinking 'Lagos Nigeria as a holiday destination!?' well yes contrary to what most people think Lagos is a great place to holiday.

Anywho I decided I was going to move down for a trial run after my working holiday which took place in the summer of 2012.
My parents still find it odd that someone who started going to Lagos as an adult has developed such enthrallment with the city. As a child, my folks would travel to Nigeria once every two years or so.
Now, I visit roughly three times per year. They don't see what all the fuss is about and are certain the novelty will soon wear off.

THE BIG MOVE

I did my research, spoke to friends, relatives, expat workers, opened a Nigerian bank account etc. I found a lovely furnished two bedroom apartment in Victoria Garden City (VGC) in the Ajah axis of lekki (east from Victoria Island) for 1.5 Million Naira per annum which is around 6,000 GBP at the exchange rate of N250. I wanted to stay at the popular 1004  estates in Victoria island as its ideal for expats and westerners that are new to Lagos but I just felt it was slightly overrated and overpriced. I realised I could get more for my money at VGC.

Next, I needed a car so had a look on cheki.com.ng to get an idea of car prices then had some friends talk to some friends about getting a small jeep.... I wasn't really sure what make I wanted, I just thought I needed something that could brave the dodgy back roads in Lekki when flooded... Went to see a Honda and Toyota, I was actually swayed towards the Toyota. My folks kicked up a bit of fuss over if I was going to have a driver or drive myself….but I'll elaborate on that in the next blog post.

I decided to postpone my relocation, TWICE. Come on Folly make up your mind! Reason being that first I decided to further my studies and then I got a job offer!

I'm sure I broke that estate agents heart.

WHATS NEXT?

It’s more a question of when rather than if…
As my studies are now complete YAAAAY I can actually go anytime from now.....
I can’t give an exact time frame....you will have to follow the blog to see when it actually happens.

I shall be In Lagos over the summer for a few projects which should be fun…


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Ipaja Summer School: Lagos 2012

Since thoroughly enjoying my previous trip to Lagos in 2011 which was my first, I decided to go back on a working holiday in 2012. 

Organised by Christian Aid partner; development impact for Nigeria DIFN, I spent the month of august working with the Ipaja Community Link who run a summer school which is based in the town of Ipaja mainland Lagos.

UPDATED 07/2015

To find out more information about the charity and the summer school they run, please visit their official website and facebook pages below.
Development Impact For Nigeria

Ipaja Community Link Facebook Page

https://www.facebook.com/Ipaja-Community-Link-558670717654062/?hc_ref=SEARCH

You can check out some of the photos of my visit to the summer school on the photo section of my google page.

I will be documenting my teaching journey in Lagos via Instagram, please follow @folatheexplora

Lagos Novice

I first travelled to Lagos in the summer of 2011. Yes, I know.... British-born Nigerian kid finally decides to explore her roots after two decade’s...

I got to meet my relatives after all those years briefly speaking over the phone and seeing the odd picture.

I travelled on my own, my aunt (who is my actual aunt) met me at the airport. Everyone said I was crazy for going alone. My parents were not too happy either but I just had to satisfy this yearning and finally experience what it was like to go back home. As a child, my mother travelled back to Nigeria for vacation every few years or so. My elder sister accompanied her on one occasion and seemed to enjoy it. Up till now just the two of us (out of six siblings) have visited Nigeria.

STEREOTYPES

Now I'm going to be honest, before I left in August fear was instilled by others around me. remember this was me someone who had never travelled outside of Europe and north Africa before, now visiting Lagos the bustling ex-capital of Nigeria.

I was informed of arm robberies, rampant corruption, traffic, ritual killings, pickpocketing, kidnapping, bloated dead bodies on roadsides, and 419 (fraud), so pretty much all manner of organised crimes. I remember one particular friend who often travels to Lagos alone giving me the DOs and DONTs. She said upon arrival I should clutch my handbag tightly and be vigilant as pickpockets are rife, people will be grabbing me left right and center for a taxi ride.

The Reality

Upon arrival, nothing happened....I was expecting something to...nothing did. Yes once I left arrivals plenty of taxi drivers approached asking if I needed a lift but nobody grabbed me. I politely declined the offers and moved on.

Out of all the things I was told of (listed above) I experienced just two; traffic and corruption. unfortunately, the latter is embedded in the Nigerian system and cannot be avoided, but you can choose whether to feed the habit or not. I experienced several situations where bribes were expected and I did not give in, especially not at the airport. As for traffic well, I remember one occasion where I left Victoria Island at around 16.30 hrs. I didn’t arrive at my destination on the mainland until 21.30. I think Lagos is simply overpopulated, too many cars, no decent public transport, not enough expressways and poorly maintained roads mean everyone has to take the same routes.  A new sustainable method of public transport needs to be created URGENTLY.
I hear attempts are being made….

I spent most of my first visit travelling between Lagos and Ondo state! I had an amazing time. People were extremely warm and friendly despite living in what we would describe here in the UK as relative poverty. To them as long as they had a roof over their heads and a means of survival they had a reason to thank God Every day. A great sense of community and I can truly say that what the UK has lost Nigeria has gained and what Nigeria Has Lost the UK has gained.

To keep up with my  Lagos adventure follow @folatheexplora on Instagram.